Ullen Sentalu: A Homage to the Women of the Javanese Courts

In the golden era of Indonesia's history when mighty empires flourished, Javanese women could be everything they wanted to be. High priestesses, admirals, governors, and even queens. Hell, they could even be swashbuckling maniacs ransacking foreign ships every other Sunday if they really wanted to. A few centuries ago, however, things changed for the worse for them. With the advent of Islam, women no longer have the right to ascend to the throne. As time goes by, more and more of their roles have been put aside, and now the idea of a Javanese woman is one who is docile and obedient. Javanese women are described as "konco wingking" which is Javanese for "a friend who walks right behind you," something that the society have become accustomed to.

Indeed it was a hard time for Javanese women. It was even worse for the women of courts. At least the commoners had their own freedom, their girls are free to make friends and even meet boys. Sounds a lot like your high school? That was the reality, even though their life was hard, at least they were free. The women of the courts had to follow strict rules that made them suffered even more. Sure, as noblewomen they had some access to education, they could even immerse themselves in art. Several royal batik motifs and court dances are believed to be created by women. Unfortunately, everything they created had to be attributed to the ruler and their names remained unknown. That's a really bright concept, isn't it. Just leave it to a delusional man to lead the people, no wonder these courts weren't very successful with the Western colonialists. In the end, you can not hide true beauty, even if you really try hard to. In most museums in Yogyakarta, the sultan is the focus and the women around him are all but ignored. It's like everybody is conspiring to feed his huge ego. But one particular museum in Yogyakarta takes you to the world behind the centuries-old veil to expose the true source of the light, the world of the women of the Javanese courts.

Ullen Sentalu stands for ulating blencong sejatining tataraning lumaku (Javanese: the light of the lamp is the light of the life). Located in Kaliurang Village, on the slopes of Mount Merapi, the museum blends in harmony with nature. The building which is built with natural stones is sheltered by trees, creating a serene atmosphere. Walk in cool shades of the trees as you go through lush gardens and courtyards. The museum's surrounding is inviting as it is, but the real attraction lies underground. The friendly and hospitable (and not to forget; English-speaking) guide will take you to Guwo Selo Giri, a fascinating stone labyrinth that kept the most inspiring tales of the princesses of the Mataram kingdom. There are sad stories, but there are happy ones as well. The women were repressed, but in no way they were silent observers. With their subtle whispers from the background, the women influenced the most important decisions made by the courts. Strong figures fought for what they believed in, resisting petty and old-fangled customs. After all, they might walk behind you. But that's a very strategical position. They drive you to a promised land, or they could shove you to the deepest demise.

This is an adventure which takes you to the past, which gives you a perspective on the present and the future. Women are the most important part of our society, the success of any nation depends on the roles of the women. Adults should come to educate themselves, and you should also take your children here to introduce them to local wisdom. Needless to say, a visit to this museum is a must when you're in Yogyakarta.